After 40 years in business, Ralph Rucci still prizes uncompromising quality and the seriousness of fashion.
The New York-based designer’s fastidious approach to design hasn’t waned through the decades. In July, he returned to Paris for his ninth visit to couture and work is underway for another appearance in January. His first couture show took place in July 2002 because of an invitation from the Fédération de la Haute Couture. By his account, that postshow bow remains his greatest moment in fashion.
Rucci said, “That was major. I saw the most important press in the world sitting there, and clients that you only heard about. The reviews the next morning were startling. I knew my life had changed and my criteria for the work went even beyond. I think that’s when my psychotherapy went into full blast to allow myself the calm to be able to be creative without self-consciousness. But that’s been the lifelong work, I think.”
His company morphed into Ralph Rucci New York in 1984 and then the more luxurious Chado Ralph Rucci in 1994. The name refers to the ancient Japanese ceremony of taking 331 steps to present someone with a cup of tea. Over the years, Iris Apfel, Martha Stewart and Deeda Blair were regular front-row guests at his New York Fashion Week shows. Even his mentor James Galanos occasionally made an appearance.
During an interview, Rucci reflected on the opportunities and obstacles of weathering the fashion industry for much of his career as an independent designer. Nearly seven years ago, he exited his namesake company and parted ways with Nancy and Howard Marks, who invested in the company in 2012. Uninterested in rehashing the dregs of that fallout, Rucci spoke of how that “separation, time and not producing collections that are prescribed for you has allowed me to enjoy the work and my life, and not feel that either one is mutually exclusive.”
Until seven years ago, he said he had never thought in his career that the work was good enough, holding fast to the idea that the next collection will always be better. But looking back at the body of work, he said, “I’m so proud that I have been allowed to do this with my life for 40 years.”
Preferring to keep a low profile and focus on the work, Rucci has been the subject of a few documentaries and books, as well as the recipient of numerous awards including the Cooper-Hewitt Museum’s National Design award for Fashion and the Fashion Group International’s “Lifetime Living Legend” award.
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